Now that my first drawer is done and in place, and that I am back from some great vacation under the warm sun of Martinique, I have no excuse not to continue with building my workbench.
Currently I only have a small part done and I need to continue to build the side part where my Stanley 246 miter box will find its spot as well as some other tools.
That side part will be made exactly the same way as I did the first part. The two middle sections will receive a drawer like the one I just made and a shelf below the drawer, while the two extremity will be made of a shelve and cabinet below.
The legs are made with 4"x4" cedar posts, jointed together using 2"x4" cedar lumber assembled with tenons and mortises. Each section between legs is 31" wide and will be assembled as shown below. The workbench frame is 31"5/8 high (without the top).
Currently I only have a small part done and I need to continue to build the side part where my Stanley 246 miter box will find its spot as well as some other tools.
That side part will be made exactly the same way as I did the first part. The two middle sections will receive a drawer like the one I just made and a shelf below the drawer, while the two extremity will be made of a shelve and cabinet below.
Overall workbench design. |
The legs are made with 4"x4" cedar posts, jointed together using 2"x4" cedar lumber assembled with tenons and mortises. Each section between legs is 31" wide and will be assembled as shown below. The workbench frame is 31"5/8 high (without the top).
I started by measuring and cutting the posts to the correct length. For this I ensured the post end was square cut and marked the cut length.
I used my Stanley 246 miter box to cut a kerf all around the post so to guide the saw.
Using the miter saw to mark a kerf all around the post. |
I finished the cut using my Disston D8 crosscut.
Finishing the cut with my Disston D8. |
It was quick and easy to do and the cut was perfectly square.
Square cut. |
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