Coffee table - part II

After having prepared pieces for the table top as shown in my last post I needed to cut the some mortises for the final assembly.
After careful measurement I used the marking gauge to trace where the mortise will be cut as well as the center line.

Mortised marked ready to be cut.

Like before I used my hand brace to remove most of the waste so I just need to cleanup the mortises with a chisel.

My hand brace and depth stop setup.

For final sizing of the tenons I used one of my router plane, this is a very easy way to get a uniform tenon size.

Using the router plane to clean tenons to size.

A last dry fitting and the top will be ready to be glued.

Last dry fitting.

Next comes the table base. First thing to tackle was to cut all required pieces to length, so 4 legs cut from 4"x4" and 4 pieces for the apron cut from 2"x4". My miter box saw was just tall enough to cut through the 4"x4" so I used it to get a square cut.

The saw blade is just tall enough to cut through the 4"x4".

This time I had some great help to do all the cuts as my beloved wife wanted to try my miter box!

My beloved wife at work with the miter box.

To cut the tenons on each pieces of the box apron I choose not to make any kerf on the saw line to put my sawing skills to test. I must say that I have been surprised to find it easier to cut the tenons without that kerf. Following the line was quite easy.

Sawing tenons along the marked line.

For the mortises on the legs I used the usual way of removing waste using the hand brace and then cleaning the remaining with a chisel.

Cleaning mortise waste on one leg.

I started the table base assembly by gluing one leg with one apron part using polyurethane glue.

Each leg glued with a piece of the apron.

When the assembly was dry I then glued all the pieces altogether.

Table base assembly.

The base forms a 17" x17" square so the top will overhang the base by 1/2" on each side.