I see the light

Now I see the light, finally I must say. I am pretty much done with my TV Stand project. It took much effort and more time than expected but more important, it is almost done.

From last post, remained to cut the top board to size using my new sawyer bench.

It was the first time I used my sawyer bench, and in fact the first time I used any sawyer bench so I was a bit nervous as I did not want to miss cut that piece. The cut I needed to saw were diagonal so neither a real crosscut or rip cut, at the end I selected to use my Disston D8 Crosscut saw for this.

First cut.

The cut went pretty well, surprisingly well in fact. The position on the sawyer bench is really nice and makes it far easier to get a straight cut. I was able to cut all along the marked line without any issue.

First cut done along the line...

...and square.

After that first milestone I cut the other side, full of positive energy. The cut went smooth and like the previous one it was pretty easy to cut straight along the line. However this last one was a bit off square.

A bit off square.

There was still no drama though, this is nothing a plane cannot easily fix.

After having cut the right and left side I was done and got the top rough cut.

The top board rough form cut.

Next I needed to round the angles. I started to cut most of the waste using a back saw...

Most of the waste is cut with a back saw.

...then used a chisel to roughly make the rounded part.

The remaining is chiseled out.

This gave me the rough top board shape.

Rough top board shape.

I then used a spokeshave and a block plane to cleanup the round section and finally lightly sand it to get the final shape.

Final top board shape.

After so much effort, this is finally the time I can do a dry fit and see how this will look at the end.

Front view...

...rear view...

...and from below.

I initially wanted to make a beveled edge raising from below the top board. I am wondering if I should still do that. I am not sure anymore that this beveled edge would look good and may just stick with a chamfer all around the top board.

Just a little extra effort to plane the top board perfectly flat and to apply the finish and I will be done and ready to deliver this to its final owner.

Sawyer bench

I need to cut the top board to be able to finish my TV stand project and as written in my last post, I wanted to make a sawyer bench to be more comfortable when sawing. So I put the TV stand on hold for few days so to build my sawyer bench.

After some research on this subject and after seeing some variations about it, I based mine on the one from Tom Fidgen. You can see some example of his design (well not sure if this is his design but the design he documented at least) here.

I however adapted the dimensions described in his book to the wood I already have in my shop as the goal here is to use what I already have that is to say mostly some offcut from other project(s).

In summary mine will be 19^1/2 inches high, 36 inches long and around 15^1/2 inches wide.
Legs are 1^1/2x2^1/2 , the two top boards are 1^1/2x7^1/2, the stretchers are 3/4x3^1/2, same for the aprons, and finally the cleat are 1x1 scraps.

The reason for these dimensions is to maximize wood usage and minimize waste. This said lets jump into the real work!

Step 1: Cut all parts to length.

This is an easy one. I used the my Stanley miter box to be sure to cut square without headache but this can be done directly with a back saw.

A bunch of parts cut to length.

Step 2: Give it some nice legs

Basically two things need to be done on each leg. First cut the notch on the end of the leg where it will be attached to the top board, second cut the notch on the leg for the lap join with the horizontal stretcher.
I used the top board to mark the notch size on the leg top end and the stretcher to mark the size of the bottom notch, 3 inches from the leg bottom end.

For the two straight legs, the top notch is easy, just cut on one side with a rip saw and the other side with a crosscut, clean the cut with a chisel or better with a shoulder plane and you are done.

For the slanted legs I started to cut each end to the correct angle, then marked the top board thickness and finally the cut. Depth of cut should be half of the leg but this does not really matter provided the leg is used to mark the top board afterward.

Slanted legs top cut.

For the notch for the bottom stretcher, it is even easier. Cut each side with the crosscut saw, then saw parallel cuts in the waste and chop it with a chisel.

Multiple cuts on the waste...

...and chop chop chop.

Finally I used a shoulder plane to clean the cut shoulders and bottom carefully checking the depth and width of the cut.

Few pass with the shoulder plane and we are done.

Step 3: Top boards joinery

The two top boards need to be notched the same way the legs lap joins were cut. I used the legs to mark the cut depth and the stretchers to mark the cut width. It does not really matter where the cut are located (meaning no need to exactly measure from ends) provided that they are the same on the two boards and matching legs and stretchers.

Step 4: Dry fit stretchers and legs assembly

After having cleaned the joins it is time to test the legs and stretchers assembly. It should give a snug fit with no gap.

Legs and stretcher assembly dry fit...

...no gap

Then dry fit the assembly with each top boards.

Top board and legs assembly dry fit.

The two assemblies side by side.

Step 5: Aprons and cleats.

The last parts to be made are the two aprons and cleats. I first cut one apron end to the same angle as the slanted legs, then positioned it between the two legs on the side by side dry fit and marked the other end with a  pencil. I added 2 inches to the marked line for the middle space (but this can be any width) and cut the other end square.
The same thing needs to be done to the cleats, minus the legs depth.
Finally I glued the cleats on the aprons, done.

Apron and cleat assemblies.

Step 6: Bird mouth, round and bevels.

Now that all parts are done, the last thing to do before final assembly is to finish the pieces. I cut the bird mouth on the top boards, rounded corners and beveled all edges.

Mouth bird and rounded corners.

Step 7: Final assembly

The final assembly is pretty straightforward. First glue legs and stretchers.

Legs and stretcher glued.

When dry, assemble with each top board.

Legs and top board glued.

Reinforce all joins with dowels.
I used 3/8" dowels for legs and stretcher joins...

Legs and stretcher join reinforced with 3/8" dowels.

...and 5/16" dowels for top board joins.

Top board join reinforced with 5/16" dowels.

Lastly I affixed the aprons and cleats with screws.

Step 8: Step back and enjoy.

Now that my long awaited sawyer bench is done I can enjoy looking at it.

Bird mouth...

Butt view.

I really enjoyed building this bench, first because I wanted one for quite some time and also because it was really a joy to work on it.

I like it very much!

I will make a fence, drill holes for holdfast and apply some finish later as I first need to use it to finalize my TV stand.

A missed rendez-vous

As I mentioned I missed my Christmas deadline to finish my sister in law TV stand and finish is the main culprit for the delay. But this does not mean I stopped working on it.

The last thing that I needed to tackle before starting the final assembly was the rear leg. The leg will be set using a tenon in the central part of the stand and at an angle (12 degrees from the vertical) so the joinery need to be done at the right angle.

I first cut the leg to the right angle then cut the tenon and cleaned the shoulders. This was easier than I expected.

Angled tenon

I then applied the shellac wash coats, stain and wiping varnish on the leg.
While the rear leg finish coats were drying I made  few keys that will be used to bind the stand base and the top. I used a scrap of birch (Yellow Birch or Betula Alleghaniensis to be precise) for these keys.

The five keys used to bind the top to the stand base.

The top will be bound using 5 keys, 3 on the front and 2 at the rear.

One key in place at the rear of the front apron.

Each key will go in a small notch at the rear of the front apron and rear enclosure so no key will be visible.

The key is going in a small notch.

This done and all the finish layers applied and dried on the different parts, I started with the final assembly.
The first parts to be assembled were for the front face...

The front face assembly.

...I then added the rear shelves enclosure...

Dry fit of the rear shelves enclosure before gluing.

...then came the two front legs...

Two front legs assembly.

...the bottom shelf...

Bottom shelf assembly.

...and finally the rear leg.

Rear leg assembly.

On the previous picture are visible the wooden dowels used to reinforce the shelves enclosure assembly. For the bottom shelf I used some screws in the enclosure as this will not be seen except if you crawl below (but I used brass wood screw so even if you crawl below it will still look nice).

This ended the stand base construction and the final result, minus the top, is shown below.

TV stand base front view...

... and rear view.

The last thing I need to do now is to cut the top board to size and finish it properly.
Before starting with that last cut I want to build a sawhorse that as I do not feel comfortable to saw such a piece at wrist or hips height. But this will make another story...