Thursday, March 21, 2019

Workbench drawers - Rounded protruding tenons

I finally finished to cut all the joins and especially the facing protruding tenons.

Dry fit of the facing box joins.

It was then time to round the tenons edge so to make them smooth and soft. To do this the perfect tool was my mini Craftsman plane.

My mini Craftsman plane was perfect
to round the tenons.

I then used a piece of rolled sand paper to smooth out all edges.

Right side of the drawer...
...Looks good to me, what about you Matt?





















After 30 minutes both side were rounded and the end result is satisfying.

The drawer front.

I am thinking to also round the edge of the drawer face and maybe to add a bead at the top and bottom of the face. Not sure for the bead though, I will try it on a scrap piece of wood to see how this would look.

I then started to cut the boards to make the drawer bottom. As discussed in my previous post I will make the bottom out of solid wood.
I used my Disston D8 to cut boards to length first. I cut the boards 1 inch longer so I can cut them again in case I am not cutting straight by hand.

Using the Disston D8 to cut the boards to length.

I must say that I am really amazed by this saw. Not only it is so sharp that sawing with it is like sawing butter, but also it is the first time I am able to saw straight to the line!

Sawing straight to the line.

And for those who may think I am cheating on this picture, here is the end result.

Perfect (almost) cut!

I bought this saw from Daryl Weir, it was not cheap but worth any penny I paid for it. I must say low hat mister Weir, you are a true master saw sharpener!

Now I have a bunch of board to resaw so to get two 1/2" board from each of them.

I need to resaw this.

And there is where is my problem now. I wanted to make this drawer only with hand tools so I tried to resaw one of these with another Disston D8 for rip cut, and I must confess it was a total disaster, true butchery, to the point where I doubt I could make it. 
My problem is that I started to resaw without making a initial kerf all around the board, I guess (or let say I sincerely hope) that doing this will make it easier. At this point I don't have anything to make this kerf except a chisel and this would be time consuming so I am thinking to sell my soul to the dark side and resaw this on the table saw, but this does not make me happy. I may give it another try tomorrow if I dare.

2 comments:

  1. Those Greene & Greene protruding tenons look great! I really like the look. Regarding the resawing of your bottom pieces, I don't think you need a kerf to help you do that with a handsaw. Just use a marking gauge to mark a line, pencil it in and saw to the lines. Flip the board to come from the other side every 20 strokes or so to make sure you are staying close to the line on the back side. If your rip saw is sharp, it should be OK.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you Matt!
      I think the problem is not the saw but the butcher who handle it :D I will need more practice!

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