Block planes

After having cleaned and put back to work my Stanley #12, I did the same with a Stanley #112 that I got a while ago. It was in very good shape and just needed to be cleaned so I rubbed the sole and sides to remove signs of oxidation and clean all the junk from the japanning.
This one was coming with a blade that I sharpened and burnished. I can see a faint Stanley etch on the blade but I do not think it is the original blade for that plane. I will see later to get a new one like for the #12.
I also put 2 coat of shellac on the tote and knob that were showing some sign of fatigue.

Testing the Stanley #112.

After reading a post from Bob, The Valley Woodworker about block planes, I realized that I have a bunch of block planes that need some care. Here is my set:

My block planes set.

From left to right there is a Stanley #220, a Footprint #220B, a Millers Falls #1455B low angle and a small Darex #102. They are all in good shape but definitively need care and sharpening.

Let start with the Darex. This one comes from my grand father toolbox and I would like to keep using it.

The Darex #102 pieces

The blade is somewhat rusty and dull. Not sure what was used to sharpen it but looks like it was filed more than sharpened.

I cleanup the sole and polished it to get its shine back.

A now shiny sole.

Next was to clean the rusty blade. I used my usual green slime and then polished the blade to get it back in better shape.

No more rust.

After some elbow grease it was sharpened to 8000 grit and honed on the leather strop.

A better looking edge.

Time to give it a test run.

Nicely cutting along the grain...

...and across the grain.

Even if this one does not look a great plane, especially with its plastic wheel, I like the small size and I am pretty sure I will make good use of it.

Now looking at the Stanley #220 and Footprint #220B, they are looking very similar.

Footprint on left, Stanley on right.

Size and blade adjustment are exactly the same on both planes. Only visible difference, the Footprint knob is held in place by a screw while for the Stanley the knob is screwed onto the sole (the knob is threaded). Also the Footprint has recessed side for the thumb.

Stanley #220 (left) and Footprint #220B (right) face to face.

When cleaning them I was able to find a major different though... The Footprint sole was severely cupped and I spent easily 15 to 20 minutes grinding it on a plate covered with sandpaper to get the sole flat enough.
After some sharpening fun the two are now ready to do some shavings.

Finally our friend Bob, The Valley Woodworker, previously posted a comment about push drills that I would need. Here are the two I own, both Millers Falls, a #188A and a #100 "Buck Rogers":

Millers Falls #188A (left) and #100 (right) push drills.

The #188A was coming with some bits in the handle while the #100 was complete with box and bits set. They both work fine and I find them very convenient to drill small leading holes for screws or nails.